Menaggio Daily Trek, Lake Como, Italy, 9/23/2011

As part of our European trip, we rented an apartment for 5 days in Menaggio, a small town on the western shore of Lake Como in Italy. The apartment was situated about in the middle of town. The shops, bus and ferry were located along the lake shore, so every day we trekked back and forth from our apartment to the center. This meant passing thru a pedestrian tunnel and descending about 4 steep narrow alleys. I counted the steps of the one in the above picture: 110.

Italians, including elderly people, pregnant women and women with strollers, seemed to have difficulty handling the steep street. And indeed, after 5 days in Menaggio, just as it was time to leave, it felt a little easier to hike back and forth.

Menaggio was an ideal spot for us to stay for a few days. It offered everything we like: access to mountain hiking, to shops within walking distance and to culture to boot with the many historical sites, villas and gardens accessible via ferry.

Rifugio Menaggio, Lake Como, Italy, 9/21/11

The picture above is taken from the ferry from Menaggio to Bellagio. To reach the trailhead we took a bus from Menaggio to Breglia (749 m). The bus route passed several villages nestled on the mountain side. To see the route, follow the villages from left to right on the picture all the way up the little church of Breglia at the left edge of the picture. (The bus ride was an outing in itself. It provided great views of the mountain, lake and villages. The mountain roads are narrow and often allow passage for one car only. At sharp bends, the bus needs to honk to signal it approach to opposite traffic. After 2-3 days in Menaggio, we got used to the sound of the honking busses - part of life in a steep mountain village.)

As we gained higher altitude the lake receded in the background.

Almost there...

Rifugio Menaggio, Lake Como, Italy, 9/21/2011, continued

As we made it up further on the path the views of the lake and surroundings became more and more spectacular.

Finally arrived a the refuge (1400 m). We were not alone, we found at least 3 different groups of hikers resting at the refuge with some of them planning to go on to Monte Grona (1736 m) and Monte Bregagno (2107 m). The refuge is used by summer backpackers and provides a place to sleep and a meal. It closes by mid-September.

Solar powered!

Rifugio Menaggio, Lake Como, Italy, 9/21/2011, continued

After a short rest at the Rifugio, we moved on to Pizza Coppa, another 20-minute walk up. From there, we had views of the refuge as well as of the 3 area lakes: Como, Lugano and Piano. The views from up there were stunning and the path, narrow and with some exposure, a little scary.

View of mountain pass between lake Como and Lake Lugano.

View over the mountain pass of Lake Lugano and Lake Piano. The city of Lugano is at the very top of the lake and not visible. This hike was the highlight of our four European trip hikes. Jim said about this hike that is was probably the most beautiful hike he had ever done in his life. Now that's an endorsement.

Menaggio to Nobiallo, Italy, 9/23/2011 continued

On our way back from exploring the Via Regina we noticed the church of SS Bartolomeo and Nicolao, with its leaning 13th century tower (no picture), and a smaller church above, the Santuario della Madonna della Pace.

As we were leaving, an elderly Italian woman approached us and asked if we had seen the "her madonita".

She explained in a torrent of Italian words that it was Santa Anna and that, yes the church was closed, but we could sneak a view from a side window. She walked us up there and showed us the open window. She was not at all bothered by the fact we understood very little of the many things she told us and that she understood no English at all. We were able to communicate that Jim was American and I from Belgium. (She was delightful and I am sorry I did not ask to take her picture.)

Picture turned out well, with a flash.

Menaggio to Nobiallo, Italy, 9/23/2011, continued

The path took us thru the Via Regina or Antica Strada Regina built by the Romans. This road was an important connection to the apline passes to reach the countries north of the Alps. It was in use until the 18th century when a present lake road was built.

The Via Regina is in disrepair, as you can see, and is in the process of being rebuilt as a hikers path.

Menaggio to Nobiallo, Lake Como, Italy, 9/23/2011

This short hike (about 2 hours round trip) was almost entirely along the lake shore. We started strolling down Menaggio's boardwalk, which we had not had time to explore after 4 days in Menaggio. We walked thru a tunnel along the lake and then along the shear rock cliffs, a favorite a rock climbers.

View towards Nobiallo from the start of the hike in Menaggio.

Views from Nobiallo, towards Menaggio.

Castello di Vezio, Lake Como, Italy, 9/22/2011

The hike started with two ferry rides and a stroll thru the streets of Bellagio and Varenna, followed by a steep climb on a narrow stone path up to the small town of Vezio.

Having a views over both sides of the lake (the Como side and the Lecco side), the castle was a strategic military point starting in the IV century and probably of Roman origin. It was destroyed and rebuilt a number of times and was used as a hiding place for the population of Varenna in the low middle ages. Having lost its military importance in the 1800's, it is now a tourist attraction and falconry center, and of course, a great hiking spot.

View from the Lecco side of Lake Como. Notice the olive grove. The castle information stated that this is probably the most northern olive grove in the world and produce very fine, low acidity olive oil.

We did not return to Varenna by the steep and dark stone road. Instead we meandered down an open hiking path on the lake side of Vezio, thru the olive groves and lake path.

Castello di Vezio, Lake Como, Italy, 9/22/2011 continued

The castle has a training and care center for birds of prey. It is one of the few remaining sites in Europe where the ancient art of falconry is practiced. About 5-6 birds are sheltered at the center and kept in the castle garden for public viewing. We happened to reach the castle at about 4 pm, show time for the birds. The trainer used a whistle and small pieces of meat as a reward for the birds. The falcon flies around and at the sound of a (very soft) blow of the whistle, returns for its reward on the trainer's glove. It was amazing to watch as the bird responded to the faintest, almost imperceptible instructions from its trainer. If you would like to know more about falconry, check www.castellodivezio.it.

Hoge Weluwe National Park, Arnhem, Netherlands, continued

We traveled from Amsterdam to Arnhem by train that day and then by bus to the park after finding our lodging (a youth hostel; an experience in itself.) It took most of the day in rainy weather to reach the park with no opportunity for lunch. By luck, we found a Pannekoeken Huis (Pancake House) at the entrance of the park. Nothing like discovering local cuisine. By 5:30 pm, we were famished and the pannekoeken provided a great finale to an adventurous day.

Hoge Weluwe National Park, Arnhem, Netherlands

First hike, actually bike ride, of our European trip. We biked for about two hours and 17 km from the southern entrance of the 55 sq km park to the Kroller-Muller Museum and back. The Museum with sculpture garden houses a vast 19th and 20th century art collection (Van Gogh, Picasso, Seurat, Rodin, Mondrian and also some more recent artists). We took advantage of the 1,000 or so free white bikes in the park. As you can see, it was a day for rain gear. We rode in fine rain most of the time. In spite of the rain and clouds, the views remained splendid.

Heathlands and vast horizons (almost as vast as at home.)

Sand dunes, and woodlands in the background.